Studio Ventilation for Lampwork

This is a Dayton 265 CFM fan like the one we use. We run it with a variable speed control. The square outlet is about 4"x4" in size. The round inlet is adapted to our 6"ducting running to the torches. We use a 6"x8" adapter at the torch end to form the flared 'hood'. When positioned just right, this will grab most of the exhaust from a small torch.
Update: We found a larger sheet metal collar that we are now using with the Lynx torch Rae is using. On Bill's side we have a plywood hood I built and fastened to the wall. Yes I know, wood seems the wrong thing to use around a flame, but I have yet to rage enough to get it more than just warm. I even lined the inside some with aluminum foil to reflect the heat. Basically it is far enough from the flame, plus the air flow out the vent that, that it works just fine. Both of these hoods have their shortcomings,

See our studio tour photos.
I tend to think that the fan motor should not be too close to the torch. The further from the hot torch, the less possibility of building up heat in the motor that may shorten the life of the fan. For this reason, and to lower the sound, I chose to mount the fan in the attic space, where it blows out through a gable end wall vent. The sound is not all that much in any case, but it will be influenced by how you mount it. Try to mount the fan securely to solid wood that will not vibrate, or transfer vibrations.

    We have a single speed fan, connected to a variable speed motor control designed for it. This is an important point - you must not use a "light dimmer" or any other speed control that is not designed for the type of motor in the fan. I think we spent about as much on the speed control as the fan! Well not quite that much, but this is not the place to skimp, it will affect the life, performance, and noise of your fan motor. Here is a link to the Grainger online catalog http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/start.jsp  You can use the product search feature to look up
" 265 CFM Dayton Blower "
and speed control,
" Fan Motor Speed Control "
    The rest of the setup is regular 6" sheet metal ducting. We used a flexible section to make it easier to position the "hood". The original 6" to 8" adapter that I used to use works ok for a minor torch. A 6" to 10" would be better if you can find one. Some wire attached to the ceiling supports the hood over the torch. It would be better to have a solid metal bracket mounted on the wall that would give support, and to mount lights from on either side as well .



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type of ventilation	pros	cons
" I opened the window"	*Dirt cheap to set up.	*Does not do squat!
Work outdoors Set up a work bench in the open air, or under cover with open walls.	*Plenty of fresh air!	*Sucks when the wind blows or it is too cold.
Cross Flow A fan is mounted in a window opening blowing out, and another window or door is open to let fresh air in.	If your torch is near the fan, potentially good ventilation. Simple to set up.	Requires a lot of air moving to be effective. A problem in cold climates. Noise of fan. *Torch flame may blow around.
Local Exhaust Hood Hood over torch with ducted fan to outside, and a fresh air inlet provided. The sensible approach to a year round work station.	Excellent exhaust of hot gasses. Fan noise and airflow can be minimal.	Heavier than air components not easily exhausted. General room air not fully exhausted. *Requires some thought to installation.
This is a Dayton 265 CFM fan like the one we use. We run it with a variable speed control. The square outlet is about 4"x4" in size. The round inlet is adapted to our 6"ducting running to the torches. We use a 6"x8" adapter at the torch end to form the flared 'hood'. When positioned just right, this will grab most of the exhaust from a small torch. Update: We found a larger sheet metal collar that we are now using with the Lynx torch Rae is using. On Bill's side we have a plywood hood I built and fastened to the wall. Yes I know, wood seems the wrong thing to use around a flame, but I have yet to rage enough to get it more than just warm. I even lined the inside some with aluminum foil to reflect the heat. Basically it is far enough from the flame, plus the air flow out the vent that, that it works just fine. Both of these hoods have their shortcomings, See our studio tour photos. I tend to think that the fan motor should not be too close to the torch. The further from the hot torch, the less possibility of building up heat in the motor that may shorten the life of the fan. For this reason, and to lower the sound, I chose to mount the fan in the attic space, where it blows out through a gable end wall vent. The sound is not all that much in any case, but it will be influenced by how you mount it. Try to mount the fan securely to solid wood that will not vibrate, or transfer vibrations. We have a single speed fan, connected to a variable speed motor control designed for it. This is an important point - you must not use a "light dimmer" or any other speed control that is not designed for the type of motor in the fan. I think we spent about as much on the speed control as the fan! Well not quite that much, but this is not the place to skimp, it will affect the life, performance, and noise of your fan motor. Here is a link to the Grainger online catalog http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/start.jsp You can use the product search feature to look up " 265 CFM Dayton Blower " and speed control, " Fan Motor Speed Control " The rest of the setup is regular 6" sheet metal ducting. We used a flexible section to make it easier to position the "hood". The original 6" to 8" adapter that I used to use works ok for a minor torch. A 6" to 10" would be better if you can find one. Some wire attached to the ceiling supports the hood over the torch. It would be better to have a solid metal bracket mounted on the wall that would give support, and to mount lights from on either side as well .